When I was in the 1973 World Con­test in San Diego, I thought I surfed pretty good, but I fin­ished in last place. My girl­friend at the time said I didn’t win because she said I didn’t do any­thing. But that was kind of my style; I kinda stood there and let the wave do every­thing. The small waves didn’t do much, so I didn’t do much either. At the Ala Moana bowl, the wave did a lot; I could just stand there and I would let the wave do everything.

—Gerry Lopez via Liquid Salt