February 2012
11 posts
If I could find it in myself to hide
the world within the world then there would be
no place to which I could remove it, save
that brightness wherein all things come to see.
—from Itinerary by James McMichael
“Chaplin and Keaton are still the best. They know that there is nothing more serious than laughter, an art demanding infinite work, and that as long as the world revolves, making others laugh is the most splendid of activities.”
—Eduardo Galeano
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When I was in the 1973 World Contest in San Diego, I thought I surfed pretty good, but I finished in last place. My girlfriend at the time said I didn’t win because she said I didn’t do anything. But that was kind of my style; I kinda stood there and let the wave do everything. The small waves didn’t do much, so I didn’t do much either. At the Ala Moana bowl, the wave did a lot; I could just...